Hokkaido through the seasons

Hokkaido is the Japan many travellers fall for on a second trip: wide skies, lakes and volcanoes, hot springs, and seafood that is hard to match anywhere. It is also strongly seasonal, so the first question is not where to go but when.

Winter: December to February

Deep, dry snow, ski resorts and hot-spring towns. The Sapporo Snow Festival, held in early February, fills the city with giant snow and ice sculptures. Further northeast, drift ice reaches the coast in late winter. Days are short and very cold, so dress for it and the season is magical.

Spring: April to May

Cherry blossom arrives later than in the rest of Japan, usually from late April into early May. The snow melts from the lower hills, and the crowds are lighter than in Tokyo or Kyoto during blossom season.

Summer: June to August

Mild and comfortable, a welcome change from Malaysian heat. Furano’s lavender fields are at their best from early to late July, with flower farms in bloom across the hills of Biei. This is a good season for families and for anyone who likes to walk.

Choose the season first. The rest of the trip follows.

Autumn: September to October

Autumn colour starts earlier here than anywhere else in Japan, beginning in the mountains in late September and moving down to the cities through October. Clear days, crisp mornings and the start of the seafood season make it a quiet favourite.

Good to know

• Distances are larger than they look on the map; a tour with coach transfers saves a lot of effort.
• Many hot-spring baths have house rules, including tattoo policies. Your tour leader will brief you.
• Pack for the season: proper winter boots in the snow months, light layers in summer.